The definitive list: where to eat & drink in Rome

February 25, 2019

I don't know about anyone else, but in winter it's a real effort to get myself out of the house. It's cold, dark and the thought of standing around waiting for a bus for half an hour with only my flimsy Primark umbrella to protect me from the rain isn't particularly inspiring - most evenings it's more appealing to just to crack open a bottle of red wine, crawl under my duvet and put on Netflix rather than venturing out. But, guess what, we've nearly made it. We're at the end of February and the days are getting longer, the clocks are about to change and there's a tangible feeling of spring in the air. I can *almost* remember what it's like to sit outside after work in the sun with a cold glass of wine - and it feels GOOD. 

So, in an effort to restart blogging now that I actually have the time to spend on it, I've put together my definitive list of where to eat & drink in Rome. I get a lot of questions about this from friends and Instagram followers and, honestly, it's good for me to keep a list of where to go in what area too. I'll try and keep it regularly updated as I try out new places, but for now, here it is:

Daze in Rome's definitive list of where to eat & drink in Rome, grouped by area

Prati/Ponte Milvio

Vino Buono
Via Augusto Riboty, 6, 00195
This super-cosy local restaurant is small, and serves all the classics - taglieri, pasta and great secondi - try the meatballs. A good choice for a cosy candlelit dinner in a relaxed environment. Competitive prices.

Il Sorpasso
Via Properzio, 31/33, 00193
This is my favourite evening aperitivo spot, with ample tables outside in summer and a cosy bar area in winter. Plenty of wines by the glass for around €5-6, and plates of cured meats and cheeses brought round often enough that I have been known to skip dinner after an early evening visit. Very popular with locals and tends to fill up around 7.30, so worth getting there early if you want to get a seat. 

Via Pomponio Leto, 1, 00193
The sister bar of Sorpasso, Passaguai is located just around the corner. Same good choice of wines and aperitivo but a slightly more low key vibe and a bit quieter - worth going for if Il Sorpasso is too crowded.

Thai J
Circonvallazione Trionfale, 38, 00195
Not outstanding but a solid choice for Thai food, which is difficult to find in Rome. Very passable pad thai in a super cosy modern restaurant. 

Via Andrea Doria, 12, 00195
Lievito offer really light Napoletano style pizzas and artisan beer in a modern - if a little loud - environment. A good choice for a quick dinner with friends.

Pizzeria Giacomelli
Via Emilio Faà di Bruno, 25, 00195
One of my favourite places in Prati, Giacomelli is an institution, serving the people of Prati since the 70s. Very Roman and very casual, don't expect luxury - but it does great wood fire pizzas and roman classic mains at very reasonable prices.

Birretta Wine and Food
Via Simone de Saint Bon, 69-73, 00195
When I first moved here I regularly craved a proper burger, American style. This place has everything you could want from a good quality burger, with a great selection of beers and sides. 

Casa Prati
Via Giovanni Pierluigi da Palestrina, 41-43, 00193
I discovered this place on The Fork, where it regularly has discounts of between 20 - 50 percent. It's a kinda chic place, and does amazing involtini and meatballs.

Piazzale degli Eroi, 00136
My go-to place in the summer for coffee and drinks, Fischio is basically just a kiosk with outside seating on Piazzale degli Eroi. Thanks to its reasonable prices, strategic location (it gets the sun all day!) and music in the evenings, it's always packed with locals from morning until midnight.

Via Crescenzio, 91c, 00193
American 1920s vibes in Rome - this cocktail bar has gorgeous decor and a great drinks list. Doesn't get busy until around 8/9 - but after that I'd recommend booking ahead if there's more than two of you as it's a small place and it really fills up.

Int 2.
Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, 43, 00135
A super-secret speakeasy on the main piazza in Ponte Milvio, you have to buzz up to enter and buy a €2 members' card before they'll let you in. Once inside it's a classic Roman apartment, with velvet sofas, fairy lights and - shh, don't tell anyone - you can even smoke inside. 

Love da Brando
Via Flaminia, 489-465, 00191
I stumbled across this place by accident on the hunt for aperitivo - I went in the evening, but it seems like it would be a great place to bring your laptop and get a bit of work done during the day too. With a glass of wine or a cocktail you're brought a platter of cheese, meat and vegetables to accompany it. 


Da Tonino
Via del Governo Vecchio, 18-19, 00186
It's relatively rare to find really authentic places to eat in the central areas of Rome, but when I tried Da Tonino I was pleasantly surprised. There is always a queue outside and you can't book - but it's worth the wait for huge portions of good Roman pasta at great prices.

Vicolo delle Vacche, 9, 00186
Google describes Etabli as: "a modern Roman restaurant & wine bar in a 15th-century building with classy, distressed decor." Tbh, I think this covers it pretty nicely. Especially great in winter, where you can spend the afternoon with a hot chocolate in front of the fire.

Emma Pizzeria
Via del Monte della Farina, 28, 00186
The chances are you will be sat next to someone vaguely famous here (if you're slightly nerdy about Italian culture and you know what to look for!) I sat next to Marianna Madia, a sort-of famous Italian politician, and lots of my friends have had similar experiences - it's that kinda 'in' place. Really good pizza.

22, Via delle Zoccolette, 00186
I absolutely loved this place when I first went - I took my parents when they came to stay, and we all came away super impressed. This place is run by four Roman women - mothers and daughters, I believe - and is really stylish inside, has an amazing garden in the summer and a to-die-for innovative menu. When I went back though, I was slightly disappointed - they seem to have raised their prices and cut down their portion sizes, making it a very expensive meal. For special occasions however I'd still recommend it. 

Barnum Cafe
Via del Pellegrino, 87, 0018
There was a time when I came in here most days for a coffee and one of their delicious pastries, as it's a great place to bring your laptop and work if you're freelance. The staff are super friendly and always ask how I am when I pop in! Good for a brunch to set you up for the day, or a glass of wine with friends in the evening.

Il Vinaietto
Via del Monte della Farina, 38, 00186
'The communist wine bar', as it has been named by one of my friends, is pretty much exactly that: an old fashioned wine bar with a great selection of wines (glasses start from €3.50) and communist posters all over the walls. Always full of locals, it's a great place to grab a few glasses of wine before/after dinner.

Trastevere & Testaccio

Via della Scala, 27, 00153
I first discovered this place because I had two friends in tow and it was one of the only places with space at the bar for a reasonably priced glass of wine. Since then, it's my go to spot for a glass of wine in Trastevere - cosy inside, nice decor and a good wine selection. The food also has great reviews, although I'm yet to stop there for dinner.

Bali Bar
29, Via del Mattonato, 00153
A real gem hidden in the backstreets of Rome's most traditional quarter. Buzz on the door, step inside and it feels like being in Bali - tiny tables with corner sofas and plenty of space for shisha if you fancy it. The best Asian food I've eaten in Rome.

Dar Poeta
Vicolo del Bologna, 45, 00153
This bustling pizza restaurant is one of the best in the city, and always busy - eating at one of the red-chequered-tablecloth outside tables during the summer is great, but be prepared to queue! Local tip: come after dinner for the nutella and ricotta calzone - you won't regret it.

La Gatta Mangiona
Via Federico Ozanam, 30-32, 00152
Ok, this place isn't strictly in Trastevere, but it is sort of nearby. In Monte Verde, this pizza place does some of the BEST Napoletan style pizza in Rome.

Grazia e Graziella
Largo M.D. Fumasoni Biondi, 5, 00153
This restaurant is one of those rare things: both a tourist favourite, AND a place where you can get a decent meal at reasonable prices. Not the most relaxing experience - expect to be in and out fairly quickly - but always a good bet. And much better than its sister restaurant Tonnarello, which always has a big queue but is nowhere near as good.

Via Galvani, 24a, 00153
This is one of my go-to spots for a more elegant meal - this restaurant in Testaccio has amazing decor and a terrace to die for in the summer. 

Mordi e Vai 
Nuovo Mercato Comunale di Testaccio, Via Beniamino Franklin, 12/E, 00153
Testaccio Market is worth going to anyway to experience a bit of the local life - and while you're there, stop at panini institution Mordi e Vai for one of the best hot sandwiches - for want of a better description - of your life. 

Il Duca 
Vicolo de' Cinque, 52/56, 00153
This is one of my most recent discoveries, and it's shot up there as one of my favourites. A traditional Roman restaurant in the heart of Trastevere with honest prices and friendly staff - we were surrounded by locals on the Sunday lunchtime we went, which is always a good sign.

*NEW* Pasta e Vino Osteria
Via della Pelliccia 12, 00153
I tried out this place completely by accident, wanting to go to Il Duca but finding it was fully booked. I searched around and eventually came across Pasta e Vino, and saw it had 5 stars on Tripadvisor! After going, I can confirm that it merits them. You can choose your pasta and sauce, all made in house, starting from €8 with no cover charge. Reasonably priced and a really nice environment to have dinner in.

Monti/San Lorenzo/Pigneto

Via dei Capocci, 26, 00184
Being a big fan of Italian meatballs, as soon as I heard about a restaurant that actually SPECIALISED in them, I was dying to try it out. I'd recommend the Cacio e Pepe meatballs in a creamy cheesy sauce - and the meatball based starter. Meatballs meatballs meatballs. 

Via dei Sabelli, 32 00185
I went to Ferrovecchio for an aperitivo, so I can't speak too much for the food - but I absolutely love the vibe of this down-to-earth restaurant in San Lorenzo. The outside garden area is great for a relaxed evening beer.

Soul Kitchen
Via dei Sabelli, 193, 00185
On the same street as Ferrovecchio, this Pugliese restaurant does a great platter of meats and cheese for aperitivo. Best taken with in the little garden outside in the summer with a bottle of chilled white wine. al Pigneto
Via Braccio da Montone, 56, 00176
My girlfriend took me to this restaurant for a birthday treat a couple of weeks ago, and I loved it. It's got a very chic industrial vibe, with bare walls and cosy lighting. The menu is really original - I went for chicken cooked in coconut milk and almonds, risky for an Italian restaurant - but it was delicious. It's a little on the expensive side, but there's usually 20pc off if you book online with TheFork.

Necci dal 1924
Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 68, 00176
The perfect place for an aperitivo or brunch - Necci dal 1924 really sums up why I love the area of Pigneto. Super cool and a little hipster - it even has a little garden adorned with fairy lights. 

Club Spirito
Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 53, 00176
Pigneto's speakeasy - you need to enter through a secret door in the sandwich shop next door. Once you get in, there's a great cocktail list, a courtyard for summer and even a mini casino - it's open until 4am on weekends, so a great place for a nightcap.

Krishna 13
Via Foscolo, 13, 00185
When I first moved to Rome I was devastated by the lack of decent Indian restaurants. Finally, I found this one - loads of choice, great decor and reasonable prices. Recommend the butter chicken.

Black Market Hall
31 Via dè Ciancaleoni, 00184
There's actually two Black Markets in Monti - my favourite is Black Market Hall. it's a bit bigger than the other, often holds live music sessions and even has a terrace outside. The decor is very 1950s living room, and I love it. 

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